A bit of a tame heading by all accounts, but after the heart transplant, the momentum has been slowed somewhat by the fact the engine wasn't fully installed yet and as such limited the other jobs that could be done. However, in the spirit of maintaining progress I decided to do a couple of things whilst I waiting for the Trevvy Special Mounts. So, I installed the CT9 and manifold in place, ready for when I can torque everything down, and loosely assembled the downpipe - reason being that I've always needed plenty of manoeuvring when tightening the downpipe and exhaust assemblies.
After which I was left with not much to do at all, other than wait for the new mounts, as attempting to attach any lines or cabling could create snagging or tension and plenty of crying at broken parts during the inevitable movement of the engine when installing the new engine mounts. And after about a weeks' lull of progress, I was greeted by a lovely sight:
They actually just appeared on my desk, super cereal! Ok, not really, but anyway, I was ecstatic, yet another push forward for some progress! So ecstatic infact that I went straight to install them, and as is obvious with such cases, rushing a procedure is a quick way to issues. And so it began. There were no bolts for the new C56 Bracket for the gearbox (which was omitted on purchase), but that would prove redundant as I just pilfered the requisite bolts from my old gearbox - the guy made me wait long enough to collect the gearbox. However, seeing as the mount design on the Optional-LSD gearboxes varies slightly, typically ONE bolt wouldn't work, but I had enough to at least affix the mount and bracket in place.
Once done, I then had the issue of attempting to line up said components in order to get the fixing bolt through the mount. Which proved fruitless - the old mounts were so worn that jacking up the engine resulted it in doing so lop-sidedly and not sitting within the bracket. On this basis I figured it'd be best to install the other two mounts first as then the engine should then just lift straight up!....O_o
So, I dropped down the gearbox side and removed the mount, swapped the new mount onto the bracket and tried to jack the engine back up. However, the mount was fouling, so much so that even with the car starting to lift - and hence, the weight of the car forcing down on the mount - it still wasn't slotting into the bracket. I cried to Harvey via text who replied in a typical derisory fashion explaining something about using a "drift" and muscle and I don't know what else as I don't pay attention. So, armed with a B&Q pry-bar, I tweaked the bracket a little bit whilst raising the car and eventually it slotted in, and with a bit more adjustment I lined up the bolt and tightened it in.
The engine side mount was a relative breeze, and after which the rear mount was an easy install.
You may have noticed something in the pictures as well. Yes, I got a new desk and I damaged it during assembly (>_<). I also however, got in the latest prototype of the Transparent Cambelt Covers I'm getting made, and whilst I do like to look fabulous, I do not condone the mixing of Orange and Pink, it looks vile. The cover does look lovely though, barring some fitment issues.
Straight after getting the mounts in I quickly bolted in the braided clutch hose and bled the clutch - yes, I am a superhuman, I bled the clutch, ON MY OWN. With a one-way bleed-hose naturally ^_^. Sitting back down after a quick clutch bleeding though, mondieu, that is a ridiculously heavy clutch pedal. TF!? It was only an organic uprated clutch! Oh this is going to be amusing...Oh yeah, this is only a single paddle clutch disc. My 5E will have TWO discs ^_^
Resuming from whining to myself about the newfound heft to the clutch pedal - take that you that lambasted the previous Granny-light pedal feel, I have a MAN'S pedal now - I was left with not much else to do, yet again. Why? I hear you think (yeah, I'm in your head) - it's that bolt missing from the rear engine mount. In essence, the anti-roll bar sits directly underneath it, so I cannot tighten that assembly until I have the bolt. Which means I cannot lift the exhaust system onto its hangers. Which in turn means I cannot affix my Tanabe Lower Control Arm brace. So on. Unfortunately, my badly timed (on a Friday) and frantic research for a bolt proved fruitless, so it will unfortunately mean another progress-free weekend.
Then all of a sudden, it came to me in a daze - I could attempt to crank over the engine! Z0mg! Once I collected myself up from my girly hysteria, I started plugging the loom back into the appropriate connectors, bolted the fuel line onto the fuel filter an so forth, to the point that essentially the engine was ready to turn. Having charged the battery I connected the battery negative in a rather rudimentary manner and attempted to turn the engine over (with the coil disconnected and EFi fuse pulled out). Nothing. The starter solenoid fires, but it doesn't turn. You would think I would've been disappointed (ofcourse I frickin' am, it didn't turn over!!11one!) however...nothing caught fire either! So I am not left dismayed, as I neither tightened the bolts onto the starter, nor did I bolt down all the earthing wires that attach to the gearbox and engine mount. My darling Rick is supposed to assist me shortly in trying to get the engine cranked over, so once he arrives, stops laughing/crying/aggravating hysterically at the sight of the wiring loom, we'll attempt that again. If all else fails, Trevvy's going to have the pleasure of labouring over my handiwork ^-^
With that out of the way, and the engine safely in situ', I ventured forth to remove yet more evil superfluous weight out of the car, namely the rather substantial looking exhaust heatshield mounted underneath the floorpan. Getting over an initial claustrophobia I moseyed on with my ball-joint separator to easily extricate the first of fixing mounts. The rearmost mounts utilised a pair of 10mm bolts/nuts and were easily disposed of, but the middle fixture was a bit more laboured, and required a bit of Dremel coaxing with a cutting disc, and then a lot of massaging with the pry bar, but it too was then removed. If only its substantial appearance transferred to equally meaningful weight savings - damn aluminium - though 646.8g does surpass the culmination of the latest of weight saving measures ^_^.
With that completed, I also figured it would be an ideal as time as any to fit the new Cusco Brake Master Cylinder stopper, this time in contention with the bigger Levin Master Cylinder. Installation was straightforward but a bit of careful orchestration of the tightening of the bolts was required as the much reduced clearance afforded by the greater master cylinder meant that the stopper spacer needed to be forced in slightly, but no matter, it fit! Though I think I may have stripped the threads on the end of the engine mount bolt >_<.
Finally I have arrived to the present, after a 1.5month lack of updates, and so, what is left? Not much in essence - get the engine cranked over and primed, get the engine to fire and warmed up, and oil checked, get the wiring sorted out, get the driveshafts/hubs in/on and a couple of little jobs. Essentially, barring the wiring loom, all that is left is menial fitting of parts and ancillaries and the car is hopefully ready to terrorise the general populus.
And, this is a bug I saw on my window sill
^-^
P.S. New weight saving total is now 10.1866kg ^_^
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Modifications List
Powertrain:
- Autobahn Oil Catch Tank (Not plumbed in)
- AutoStaff Intake Manifold Insulator Gasket
- Autobahn Oil Catch Tank (Not plumbed in)
- AutoStaff Intake Manifold Insulator Gasket
- Blitz Downpipe
- Blitz K1-200V Turbocharger (Waiting to rebuild)
- EP91 Glanza-V 4E-FTE Engine
- Extralube ZX1 Engine Oil Friction Reducer
- Ford Focus ST FMIC w/ Hayward & Scott Piping
- Hayward & Scott 2.5" Downpipe-Back single Muffler Exhaust System
- JAM Racing 1Bar Actuator (Waiting to install)
- Magnecor KV85 Spark Plug Wires
- Ported & Polished Stock 4E-FTE Throttlebody
- Blitz K1-200V Turbocharger (Waiting to rebuild)
- EP91 Glanza-V 4E-FTE Engine
- Extralube ZX1 Engine Oil Friction Reducer
- Ford Focus ST FMIC w/ Hayward & Scott Piping
- Hayward & Scott 2.5" Downpipe-Back single Muffler Exhaust System
- JAM Racing 1Bar Actuator (Waiting to install)
- Magnecor KV85 Spark Plug Wires
- Ported & Polished Stock 4E-FTE Throttlebody
- Royal Purple 5w30 Fully Synthetic Oil
- Redline Water Wetter Radiator Fluid Additive
- SARD Mag II Oil Filter
- SARD Magnetic Sump Plug
- Redline Water Wetter Radiator Fluid Additive
- SARD Mag II Oil Filter
- SARD Magnetic Sump Plug
- SARD Thermostat
- TRD 1.3kg/m Sports Radiator Cap
- TRD Duracon Oil Filler Cap
- Versa Cruise Voltage Stabiliser (removed)
- Zisco SUS321 Tubular CT9 Manifold
- TRD 1.3kg/m Sports Radiator Cap
- TRD Duracon Oil Filler Cap
- Versa Cruise Voltage Stabiliser (removed)
- Zisco SUS321 Tubular CT9 Manifold
- HKS FCon Pro-V 3.2 ECU (Waiting to install)
- JZX90 Chaser Fuel Pump (Yet to Install)
- Cruise EP82 FCon Pro Loom (Waiting to Install)
- GReddy Behemoth Intercooler Kit with Turbosmart BOV (Waiting to Install)
Drivetrain:
- Zep Racing Braided Clutch Hose
- Racing Gear Clutch Cover
Drivetrain:
- Zep Racing Braided Clutch Hose
- Racing Gear Clutch Cover
- Cusco Paddle Clutch Disc
- TRD CV Joints
- "TC Tuning" Solid Brass Shifter Cable Bushes
- C56 Gearbox
- Royal Purple Gear Oil (Yet to install)
- TRD CV Joints
- "TC Tuning" Solid Brass Shifter Cable Bushes
- C56 Gearbox
- Royal Purple Gear Oil (Yet to install)
- Quaife LSD (Yet to install)
Suspension:
- SPATS Cynos Front Strut Tower Brace
- Ultra Racing EP82 Fender Braces
- Whiteline Anti-Lift Kit
- Tanabe 4 Point Lower Control Arm Brace
- Silkroad RM/A8 Coilovers
- TRD Lower Control Arm Front Bushes
- TRD Front Anti-Roll Bar
- TRD Front Anti-Roll Bar Mount Bushes
- Cusco Hyper Metal Rear Axle Arm Bushes
- Zep Racing Engine Damper
- Zep Racing Pillowball Panhard Rod
- Zep Racing Rear Trailing Arm Brace
- Zep Racing 4 Point Floor Brace (Yet to install)
- Zep Racing 4 Point Rear Strut Tower Brace
- BYP/Energy Suspension Polyurethane Engine Mounts
- Okuyama Carbing EP91 3 Point front Strut Tower Brace (Need to Modify)
Suspension:
- SPATS Cynos Front Strut Tower Brace
- Ultra Racing EP82 Fender Braces
- Whiteline Anti-Lift Kit
- Tanabe 4 Point Lower Control Arm Brace
- Silkroad RM/A8 Coilovers
- TRD Lower Control Arm Front Bushes
- TRD Front Anti-Roll Bar
- TRD Front Anti-Roll Bar Mount Bushes
- Cusco Hyper Metal Rear Axle Arm Bushes
- Zep Racing Engine Damper
- Zep Racing Pillowball Panhard Rod
- Zep Racing Rear Trailing Arm Brace
- Zep Racing 4 Point Floor Brace (Yet to install)
- Zep Racing 4 Point Rear Strut Tower Brace
- BYP/Energy Suspension Polyurethane Engine Mounts
- Okuyama Carbing EP91 3 Point front Strut Tower Brace (Need to Modify)
- Toda Fightex Type-S Coilovers (Waiting to Install)
- Downhill Active Lower Control Arm Braces (Waiting to Install)
- Cusco B-Pillar Braces (Waiting to Install)
- "Downhill Activ" Center Tunnel Brace (Waiting to Install)
- EL' Sport EP91 C-Pillar Brace (Waiting to Install)
Brakes & Rolling Stock:
- Prodrive by Alcon 4 Piston WRC Brake Calipers (Yet to install)
- SW20 Rev3 Rear brake Calipers (Yet to install)
- Hawk HPS Brake Pads
- Cusco EP82 Brake Master Cylinder Stopper
- Brembo Discs (Grooved by Hi-Spec)
Brakes & Rolling Stock:
- Prodrive by Alcon 4 Piston WRC Brake Calipers (Yet to install)
- SW20 Rev3 Rear brake Calipers (Yet to install)
- Hawk HPS Brake Pads
- Cusco EP82 Brake Master Cylinder Stopper
- Brembo Discs (Grooved by Hi-Spec)
- AE111 Levin Brake Master Cylinder
- APP Braided Brake Lines
- Starlet GT Rear Axle Conversion
- 16" x 7" Enkei RS 3Pc. Wheels (Need Spacers)
- Starlet GT Rear Axle Conversion
- 16" x 7" Enkei RS 3Pc. Wheels (Need Spacers)
- Trust Lightweight Lugnuts
- 205/45 R16 Yokohama S306 Tyres
- 205/45 R16 Yokohama S306 Tyres
- Enkei 15" BigEnd Roder Wheels [F; 8" ET20, R; 8" ET25] [Awaiting Install]
Interior:
- Eastbear Elite Bucket Driver seat
- Bride Ergo Passenger Seat
- Comrade's C Short Shifter Kit
- Cruise Gear knob
- Dension DH100ix HDD-Based Headunit
- Nardi Classico 330m Leather Steering Wheel
- SARD 60mm Boost Pressure Gauge
- TRS Clubman 4-point Purple Road Harnesses
- GT-1 Motorsport 30mm Steering Wheel Spacer
Exterior:
- Philips Premium Sidelight Bulbs
- Cracked out Indicators w/ Ring Clear Indicator Bulbs
- Ultra Clear Repeaters & MHW Clear Bulbs
- Factory Optional Aero Lip Package
- R33 Skyline GTR Replica Bumper Vents
- Stebel Nautilus Twin-tone Horn
- Toyota Cynos Optional Window Wind Deflectors
Weight Reduction:
- Airbags & Airbag ECU Removed
- Boot Trim Removed
- Shock Tower Trim Removed
- A/C System Removed
- Rear Seats & Belts Removed
- Interior Carpetting & Mats Removed
- All Interior trim panels removed
- Headlining Removed
- Front Crash Bar Removed (Rear one missing!)
- Powersteering Pump, Lines & Reservoir Removed
- Sound Deadening Removed
- Foglights Removed
- Spare tyre and Jack removed
- Center Console removed
- Parcel Shelf removed
- Rear speakers removed
- Seatbelt assemblies removed
- HID System removed
- Doorcards removed
- TRD Front Anti-Roll Bar (2.4kg lighter than stock)
(Grand Total of about 135kg removed so far...)
* Official vehicle weight: 880kg
* Unofficial vehicle weight (not-verified): 871.6kg
Pending Setup Items Gathered:
- HRF 5E Connecting Rods
- HRF 5E 74mm Bore Pistons
- Cruise 264 Degree Camshafts
- Cruise-style TD05H Manifold & Downpipe
- GReddy TD05H-18G Turbocharger
- Synapse Synchronic 40mm Wastegate
- ACIS Intake Manifold
- 5E-FHE Crankshaft & Block
- OS Giken Twin Plate Clutch Kit
- HRF Intake Manifold with SR20 Throttlebody
Interior:
- Eastbear Elite Bucket Driver seat
- Bride Ergo Passenger Seat
- Comrade's C Short Shifter Kit
- Cruise Gear knob
- Dension DH100ix HDD-Based Headunit
- Nardi Classico 330m Leather Steering Wheel
- SARD 60mm Boost Pressure Gauge
- TRS Clubman 4-point Purple Road Harnesses
- GT-1 Motorsport 30mm Steering Wheel Spacer
Exterior:
- Philips Premium Sidelight Bulbs
- Cracked out Indicators w/ Ring Clear Indicator Bulbs
- Ultra Clear Repeaters & MHW Clear Bulbs
- Factory Optional Aero Lip Package
- R33 Skyline GTR Replica Bumper Vents
- Stebel Nautilus Twin-tone Horn
- Toyota Cynos Optional Window Wind Deflectors
Weight Reduction:
- Airbags & Airbag ECU Removed
- Boot Trim Removed
- Shock Tower Trim Removed
- A/C System Removed
- Rear Seats & Belts Removed
- Interior Carpetting & Mats Removed
- All Interior trim panels removed
- Headlining Removed
- Front Crash Bar Removed (Rear one missing!)
- Powersteering Pump, Lines & Reservoir Removed
- Sound Deadening Removed
- Foglights Removed
- Spare tyre and Jack removed
- Center Console removed
- Parcel Shelf removed
- Rear speakers removed
- Seatbelt assemblies removed
- HID System removed
- Doorcards removed
- TRD Front Anti-Roll Bar (2.4kg lighter than stock)
(Grand Total of about 135kg removed so far...)
* Official vehicle weight: 880kg
* Unofficial vehicle weight (not-verified): 871.6kg
Pending Setup Items Gathered:
- HRF 5E Connecting Rods
- HRF 5E 74mm Bore Pistons
- Cruise 264 Degree Camshafts
- Cruise-style TD05H Manifold & Downpipe
- GReddy TD05H-18G Turbocharger
- Synapse Synchronic 40mm Wastegate
- ACIS Intake Manifold
- 5E-FHE Crankshaft & Block
- OS Giken Twin Plate Clutch Kit
- HRF Intake Manifold with SR20 Throttlebody
- Farina Racers Full K3T Turbine Kit (Plug 'n' Play ECU, Manifold, Disgusting Downpipe, SARD CII Wastegate - Waiting to De-ghetto)
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About Me
- Enrico - Beddu
- I am Enrico, Italian/Mauritian, not affiliated with the Mafia/not a Dodo Bird. I have of late taken to the world of blogging - its a simple way of writing down haphazard memoirs, which I attempt to give structure to my life. It largely fails but it helps to circumvent boredom.
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