Z0mg, sounds like a desperate situation if you were to give caution to the title O_O. But no, it's the only collection of words I could drum up in 5 seconds that contained the prominent precursor to this topic.
Yes, at long last, I have installed the proverbial straws, hurrah! And what an astounding difference they have made!
*Cough*
Anyway, the clutch is finally installed, and what an obstinate little miscreant getting the gearbox proved to be, mainly in lieu of that retarded little Fracking Flywheel backing plate!
Anyway, in order to establish a little chronological correctness, I started out whichever day this was by installing the AutoStaff Intake Manifold Insulator gasket - on first glance it looked to follow the same principal as my former "Daox" gasket (which shall live on in the 5E), albeit slightly thinner. No doubt it'll perform the same duty. However, having the engine OUT of the car will make installation FAR easier. So, intake manifold off, applied the normal stainless gasket on the head-side, gasket in place, and applied some liquid gasket to insure a leak-free fit, seeing as the phenolic material isn't very conforming. 
I re-assembled the intake manifold temporarily, and without torquing the bolts/nuts too tight in order to let the liquid gasket cure properly. The next day I removed the intake manifold, removed all the overflow liquid gasket and then re-installed it, torquing it to the appropriate values. Now, back to that fracking Clutch assembly.
Before so much as to attempting to tackle the installation of the gearbox onto the engine, I knew it'd be an absolutely recalcitrant bugger of a job - trying to wriggle a 40kg lead weight to line up a 20mm shaft into a tiny hole in the end of the crankshaft that you cannot see. I've included as many detailing words in there to attempt to cover the innate perversion that can be drawn from the process, but, anyway, *Giggedy*. All the while this was happening on a pallet, with an engine held up by a brick. Yeah. Ghetto mechanics. So, attempt #1: Lined up the clutch plate as best as I could and tightened the clutch cover only moderately to allow for movement of the clutch disc to ease alignment. An exorbitant amount of faffing about then followed suit in order to find the best way of attempting to lift the gearbox up and into the engine, ending up with me using the crawler. About an hour or so later of frantically jiggling the gearbox into the clutch cover, I finally manage to line-up the shaft and get the gearbox on. Great! Now pull it off, torque the clutch cover and get the gearbox back on.
Remove the gearbox, and the clutch disc falls. Cazzo. So, take two pretty much follows the same process, though with a lot more jiggling as I now tightened the clutch cover bolts further to not get a repeat performance. In the end I managed it, after almost attempting suicide several times, and I duly torqued the clutch cover and put the gearbox back on. Fabulous, all I need to do now was to bolt the entire assembly together!
Little did I know that the flywheel backing plate is a devious little prick and decided to be the obtrusive thing in the world. EVER. It just wouldn't line up, at all. And with the engine/gearbox assembly weighing as much as the earth, and the plate protruding just beyond the two so the weight of the assembly disallowed any adjustment, some rather primitive adjustments were attempted - grinding out, hammering it around - all to no avail. So I was left with only the chance to tighten up two bolts and leave it as is. 
That is all O_o
Which loosely translates into me seizing, the nothingness. What I'm trying to insinuate here is that I have Seized the opportunity of doing absolutely nothing, rather than Seizing the day!
*Sigh*
Anyway, in the wake of the expectation of certain parts, and with little to do, I firstly set about doing a better job of cleaning the engine bay - and this time, I decided to utilise a little trick I observed during my time at F.A.S.T Autotechnic, as well as supporting the myth of the myriad of uses of such products. Applying a bit of PlusGas (a better WD40) onto a greasy cloth, I just started attacking the firewall and ouila! Dirt off, and a pleasant sheen left behind! 
Mind you some areas were a bit labour intensive so I gave up quite quickly. I will return to this later, maybe. After this I decided to stop avoiding the primary issue at hand and return to the post-apocalyptic mess that is my wiring loom. After performing a Voodoo sermon to instil me with Divine-like bravery, and armed with electrical tape and a little prayer, I decided to confront the issue. Immediately, I issued myself a facepalm - with the wiring in its catatonic state, not even Mr. Toyota himself would've known what the hell was going on, but merely placing the dashboard cross-bar in place, and starting to shape the loom started to make a coherent mass of what used to be just a chaotic mess! See?!
In this new enlightened state, I then ventured forth and started rectifying some of my previous misdeeds, primarily that loom I chopped off by mistake:
And done. I also re-soldered a couple of other junctions where I removed wires from, or peculiar junctions done by Toyota themselves presumably, where sometimes wire was just looped together then insulation taped! And not to forget, I also soldered back on the oil pressure sensor connector, but to my horror, I found out another abomination:
One of the thermostat sensor connector wires had split, DAMNATION! Yes, the project name, living up to itself, BAH! Nevermind, as with most issues in life, I ignored it and moved on and progressed onto the driveshafts. So, I disassembled them, or rather, one, as the other was being recalcitrant, and swiftly started comparing up the CV
Joints to the "TRD" ones I had collected a while back.
I was slightly delighted to find that initial doubts regarding the authenticity of such an item as a "TRD" CV Joint, yet alone an uprated one were quickly dashed as can be inferred from the above comparisons - the ribbing on the base of the CV Joint is likely to increase strength, the internal webbing seems stronger and the actual ball-bearings seem larger. However, ofcourse Sainosu wasn't going to let me get away with this positive. Damnation, you strike again. To add emphasis, I'll list the observations:
- Spline counts on the "TRD" CV Joints different to those on Glanza CV Joints
- Spline counts on Glanza CV Joints different to those on Glanza hubs (TF??!)
- Spline count on Cynos hubs different
- CV Joint Shaft Diameter LARGER on Cynos hub (bugger)
- Cynos driveshaft inner spline count different to C56 Gearbox (goddamnit)
- Glanza driveshaft inner spline count correct for C56 Gearbox (ok, srsly, tf??)
- "TRD" CV Joints fit into Glanza hubs (err, whut!?)
- Only one nut received with "TRD" CV Joints, and threaded shaft is thinner than that of Glanza CV Joints. Great
And so ensued panicked investigating and inquiring for an answer to my dilemma. Before I sat myself down, realised I was being a girl - as is often the case - and that I just needed to find 23/23 spline driveshafts. Splendid, that'll be easy! So I go forth and request for some.
Erm
Driveshafts, pl0x? Anyone? OMG, does, ANYONE HAVE THEM!?! Oh yes, we have found some!!.....You want HOW MUCH?!! GTFO.
That was literally a condensed version of what had transpired. I recently managed to source some driveshafts, one pair for free (though the short driveshaft was damaged), and the other for not so free. However, it'll do! And these were sent straight out to my friendly garage, along with the Toyota CV Gaiter kit, "TRD" CV Joints, both sets of hubs (I had wheel bearings for the Cynos hubs, why not), new wheel bearings for the Glanza hubs (Ninety freaking pounds...and I had to order twice, as in a rather asinine move I didn't read the fact that only ONE wheel bearing was included for £45 >_<), where they are currently still being assembled. I also brought my Blitz downpipe with the severed stud, and my gearbox mount to the garage for them to disassemble the mount remove the stud. Yeah yeah, I don't have the necessary equipment to do it myself stfu.
Moving on, in the midst of this lull in progress I set about doing some tedious, menial jobs, and lots of buying to keep me elated. So, I swapped the fuel rails on the engine, as the one on there had the fuel pipe cut off. Woo, that was intensive.
Fatigued by such a laboured affair, I took it upon myself to lavish myself with some purchases. So, from Toyota I bought a multitude of useless bits and bobs ranging from brand new track-rod ends, bolts for the brake calipers (as I rounded one years ago), a new distributor o-ring (as the old one was pretty nasty), a new drivers-side brake hard line (as I stripped the old one) and a couple of other menial items. Which cost quite a bit. I also put in a minimal purchase with the ever useful Camskill, primarily for parts I didn't want to pay full price for with Toyota, so this time round, wheel bearings (had to buy twice due to aforementioned oversight), some Pattern Ball-joints, some new Anti-roll bar drop-links, and some Polyurethane drop-link bushes (hooray, no more ghetto cut-up bush!). Whilst I was there I figured it'd be wise to replace the front 3G Discs, whose grooves had almost been worn out into a flat disc...on the one side at least, presumably due to the former sticking caliper. Long story short, I sourced some Brembo plain discs for a VERY reasonable price from quite a nondescript website, pleasantly surprising. I also bought myself this:
A Synapse Engineering Synchronic 40mm Wastegate, and as can be inferred:
No diaphragms. I'm pretty much sold on their entire philosophy of this diaphragm-less mantra, seems to have its solid basis. One fact that didn't impress me with the purchase however was the photocopied Setup manual, causing me to possibly believe I may have bought a fake. Hmm.
Anyway, moving on from that, I then cautiously approached the wiring again, for fear of it spontaneously creating a cosmic electric storm, and tidied it up further, starting to tie up the bundles of cable and shaping out the tee-off's and other junctions in the cabling. 
That is all. I left it again.
With the newly retrieved brake hard line in situ', I attempted to fit the front braided brake lines again, and, I did. It's just brake lines, nothing to it. Though annoyingly the captive nut on the passenger-side coilover for the brake line bracket decided to detach itself thus leaving me with a twin-line setup. Much to my annoyance. So again, I'm ignoring it for now. Struggling to find things to do, I set along with whatever I could find/bother - so I removed the Cynos hubs, and loosely placed the new track-rod ends, ball-joints and anti-roll bar drop-links, installed the new distributor o-ring, and, sat down and took a few pictures:
Whilst down on the floor, I got bored again, and as any typical prehistoric man would do, decided to attack this inanimate object that is the POSeo, albeit, with a power tool! I took out the drill and started drilling out the spot-welds on the charcoal canister mounting bracket. Plenty of swearing, and doubt, and remorse ensued, trying to drill out and subsequently chisel out the mount - seemingly taking half of the firewall sheet metal with it - until finally it was removed, all 32.9g of its heft. 
Yeah, no turning back now! So, next it was the turn of the rear seat mounts! Why can't I stop? Common sense obviously evades me. So more unsightly holes drilled into the chassis, this time in the cabin, more cursory comments and sweating and remorse for foolish actions, and the rear seat mounts were out, for a MASSIVE 174.7g of weight saving. 
Yes, I know, drinking coffee in the morning yields a great mass reduction. But this saving was caffeine-free! Use THAT in your marketing, Coca-Cola. You can't, it's copyrighted kkthx. "He then obviously decided to stop", the vast majority of the 1-2 people that read this blog would think. And you would think wrong. Well, partly wrong, as the intention was there, but the dedication was postponed. 
As I had previously presumed, the odd looking spot-welded sheets on the rear arches, after a bit of drilling and chiselling, had indeed turned out to be more sound deadening. Superfluous profanity, GTFO. However, they were so tedious to remove, I once again, ignored it for completion at a later date. Possibly when it's cold so they'll peel off like the other sound deadening sheets did, and when I have the correct drill-bit for the occasion. And if you thought that was the limit to these absolutely preposterous lengths I go to reduce weight (I could just drive naked? Less air in the tyres? Etc), I also removed:
- Boot Ajar sensor [17.7g]
- Some Miscellaneous Plate that locates the loom on the chassis rail [77.8g]
- Rear Sound Deadening I bothered to remove [5.0g]
- Rear Seat Mount Spot-weld shavings [5.4g]
Bringing the current total - exclusive of the wiring loom massacre - to 9.5398kg. And yes. I weighed, the shavings from drilling out the spot welds.
After which, in a move to restore some actual sanity to my increasingly neurotic and psychopathic ways, I was left with not much else to achieve, so I just cleaned the garage. I know, I live an edgy life. So edgy infact, that on a recent visit to my garage, which is obviously not written in a chronological manner in this post as I saw them the first time I went to the garage with regards to having my hub/driveshaft issues sorted out, I was instantly smitten by something I caught sight of. There was a Glanza there, which I didn't really care about, however, I did find a set of Racing Sparco Crimsons behind it - on a quick talk with one of the guys there I came to find out that the wheels were actually for sale. However, I didn't need any new wheels as obviously I have a car to fix, so:
I bought them. I have no need to defend my actions. They're pretty, they were cheap-ish, and had RUBBISH tyres, but now I own them. Previously to this, along with the wastegate - more evidence of my excellent organisation of timescales in this post - I had also received one my lovely packages from Shoe of the Hay. I.e. Shuhei, my contact in Japan. 
However, I only had the Intake Manifold Insulator Gasket in this package that was for me, and the Cusco Paddle clutch, but I was excited nonetheless, as always, as I love gifts and presents and Japan and I got all three, it was a fabulous trifecta. Not long after, I also received another package from Shuhei, but none of the items were mine, so I wasn't as ecstatic. However, this gave me scope to go down to Hi-Spec in Dartford as the Blitz NurSpec Muffler was going to Simon, who lived in that area.
Fast-forward a week, and I returned with this:
Freshly grooved set of Brembo Brake discs for the front, and some milled down discs/nee' rear hubs for a future rear brake setup. More to follow from this immense backlog ^_^
Well, what can I say, other than the title depicts a fate I wouldn't wish on any of my enemies..
Because these Cruise camshafts are all mine! Mwahahaha. Not much else to say; they're 264 Degree Cruise camshafts, 8.8mm intake/8.3mm exhaust lift. Errr. That's it. They're lumps of metal. However, I am deliberating selling them and having some billet camshafts made to specification based on some expert opinion, rather than just bolting in a random set of camshafts.
Also, to add to the list below, I am ALSO buying myself the following:
- Lightly used OS Giken 5E Twin Plate Clutch kit
- Auto-Staff Insulator Intake Manifold gasket
And yet again, no effort expended on the car itself ^_^
Progress stunted due to a multitude of environmental and situational factors, primarily my case of Acute Pigrizia Lethargyna Procrastinatis, I decided to alleviate this drought of effort by treating myself to a bit of a spree. Well, I say treat myself, I just had too much money in my account to let linger, so I've sort of been set loose:
~ From Sexy Mark ("Trackstar" Owner & destroyer) ~
* Dual AN Feed Fuel Rail - bought on a whim, supposed to lower injector loading, would figure its ideal for the ultimate setup
* Battery cabling - too lazy/cheap to buy wiring for the battery relocation, so got it from Mark!
* Route6 Uprated Clutch Master cylinder - I have pretty much set my heart on using an OS Giken Twin Disc Clutch kit so the Master cylinder will help lower the pedal effort to operate it
* EP82 Cusco Brake Master Cylinder Stopper - seeing as I have rid of the ABS lines, I can now install this unit far easier, which is a stiffer design than the EP91 one I was previously rocking
* "Catheter Bag" Windshield washer bag - influenced by Marks' anal attention to detail, I have also purchased one of his more innovative modifications, a windshield washer "bag" which will save critical grams and allows me to mount where I want to
~ From The Almighty Trevvadol (GT_Revva - Big Pioneer in the Starlet/Tercel field w/ BYP) ~
* Full set of Polyurethane Energy Suspension Engine mounts - self explanatory, the old mounts were rubbish!
* C56 Gearbox mounting bracket - missing from my gearbox
~ From The Japanese Contact (Bless his lovely JDM Soul) ~
* Brand New ??? Paddle Clutch Disc - rather than risk using the used disc I purchased years ago, I'd rather go for a new, and further uprated clutch medium
* Toda Coilovers - lovely ube coilovers to replace the Silkroads (so I can have them refurbished)
* Downhill Active LCA Braces - a bit of an impulse bid on Yahoo, they're a strange design of LCA brace and figured I want to try it out
* JZX90 Fuel Pump - I'm still running the stock Cynos fuel pump so this is pretty much a requisite/useful upgrade
* OS Giken 5E Twin Plate Clutch Kit - Haven't compromised in other aspects of the car, why do so with the clutch ^_^
* Auto-Staff Insulator Intake Manifold Gasket - This worked extremely well on the 5E, and seeing as I'm re-utilising the previous one on the 5E, may as well purchase this one for the 4E!
I still haven't actually paid for the Japanese parts as he's really busy, but I will be doing so soon..I'm also eyeing up a couple of things on Yahoo. Watch out for their arrival soonish. Also, Sexy Mark should be hopefully helping me shortly with the wiring in a couple of weeks, which should hopefully initiate the fire to the stretch of work needed to get the POS on the road again!
So, get the above, and what I ideally should do is:
- Fix the wiring/finish it
- Paint the engine bay
- Install clutch & gearbox onto the 4E and finish assembly
- Fit CV Joints onto driveshafts
- Have wheelbearings replaced on Glanza hubs (and possibly ball joints/track rod ends)
- Relocate battery/upgrade starter & alternator wiring
- Fit new brake lines/bleed brakes and test the pedal
- Install the 4E
- Cut the dash in half
and so on and so forth
Though, its all well and done to simply say it..
When a magician performs a trick infront of an audeince, they will always utter the paradoxical words; "Keep your eyes on the object", paradoxical as this statement attempts to get the audience to concentrate, when in reality it distracts the crowd from the actual event.
Well, this has nothing to do with anything, other than no update, but I have updated the previous unembellished update 8-P
That is all
Yeaaaah, yeaaah, yeah
Errr
Yeah
Yes, I do apologise for neglecting the blog (for the entire 1 people that actually read it, and the 1 that stalks it..), I was abit busy digging myself an ever bigger hole with the wiring work, and generally just procrastinating due to the increasing amount of work and lack of documenting of it, hence meaning more to write. And I'll I've just written now is a load of redundant explanation of actions of intention to write.
Anyway, as can be implied,
Hah, too lazy to spell it out. Yes, with the help of sexy Mr. Simon Calnan, I finally got the engine off of the engine stand, and had the flywheel attached to the engine - obviously this means that I did not have the oppurtunity to have the flywheel lightened, however, I will cope. What I did not do however was to carry on and install the clutch. The reasoning, pretty obviously and understandably, that installing a used clutch disc would be a false economy, and I cannot envision me ever wanting to drop out the engine and gearbox again just to change a clutch disc! Anyway, that's on order now and I am at a bit of impasse - there are a couple of jobs I could do, like correcting some wiring faults (need tools/Mark), fitting the new CV Joints (need a vice or something in order to press the new ones on the driveshafts), fitting the newly obtained APP Braided Brake lines from Simon (may do it shortly) and so on and so forth.
To add to the previous, unelaborated post, I added further to the weight reduction, lightening the chassis by a gargantuan 347.1g by dint of removing the bootlid trim panel, the door ajar sensors and some miscellaneous woodland critters, brining the recent total to 491.5g (not too bad in isolation now is it?! Hah, all you naysayers!), added to the 300g of the gearbox assembly saving, and then to the total thus far, that's a current mass reduction effort of 9.2263kg, and that's before I have so much as even looked at weighing my disaster of a wire loom stripping venture.
Hopefully, with the arrival of Mark, the purchasing of parts, and overcoming of debilitating procrastination, I will sort out the wiring, final assembly of the engine, and little details in steady succession (I would say swift, but that obviously won't be the case!)
Note: I also changed the title of the previous post to something slightly less, incongruous?
And unusually, to the benefit of beautifully manicured fingernails! In referrence to the wiring loom ofcourse, it of loose morals, all stripped and baring itself to me, disgusting heathen! 
Erm, yeah. If you hadn't guessed, I have been rather all consumed by the particularly odious task of stripping down the wiiring loom...on my lonesome, something which I wouldn't wish on my greatest of enemies (I'm looking at you, common Moth!), it really is tedious, annoying and testing. And that's before so much as actually attempting a plan of action to removing wires.
So, it all initiated with the plan to remove the apparently - to me at least - idiot-proof ABS wiring route, as with no pump and the rear sensors removed, it would, or should prove straightforward. Right, down to it, this wiring should be covered with no more than some sheathing and electrical tape. Hours later, I managed to pull through one of 3 looms from the ABS pump, after removing a metric ton of sheathing, electrical tape, more sheathing, more tape, some hard plastic coverings, electric tape, plaster of paris, sheathing, papyrus, and some more electric tape. It really is a haphazard sandwiching of all sorts of adhevsive and covering mediums. Another annoying discovery, was that a lot of wires (predominantly grounding wires) seemed to tee off and disperse themselves to all corners of the known universe. This really hampered the desired swift progress of just chopping, cutting, and forgetting wiring, as everything needed to be tracked to the source then its purpose/fitness of removal to be decided.
And then I moved to the inside. This is a nightmare of fuseboxes, fuse blocks, and just general chaotic wiring confusion. Which pwnt me. Believing I had tracked back and severed the required wires to remove one of the ABS ECU loom plugs, I chopped a bundle of wires, and just to ensure I as removing the right plug, offered it to the ABS ECU - in retrospect, I knew immediately I had cut off the wrong plug. Uh-oh. This wasn't meant to be removed. SPLENDID! Seems like I cut off a miscellaneous loom leading out of the main fusebox. Diddums. Oh well, I soldiered on! Quite literally - by the end of the day, I had JUST managed to remove all constituents of the ABS system circuitry, as I needed to disassemble not only all the engine-bay looming, but also the rear looming to remove the rear ABS Sensor wiring. Arrgh! However, this was no time to let the veins of stress crack through and resort to violent measures - the fact the car rocked slighlty when sitting inside and pulling the loom off of the loom fix-downs was slightly unnerving! In my first days mission I had also managed to sever the grounding wiring for the bootlid loom, as I was confounded by the tees yet again. To my horror, a week or so later when I had progressed to the main engine loom, I found this:
Bah Humbug!!!
Whilst I was in the interior of the car, and to ease the pain of being completely flummoxed by the amount of wiring to go through, and complete and utter lack of will to go through it - compounded with the total lack of knowing what I was doing - I decided to re-attack the weight saving measures and tidy up some unwanted clips and plugs and whatnot. The resultant removal of various forest gremlins, plugs, fairies, clips and what have you, amounted to a massive saving of.
Wait for it
144.1g
Holy Engineering Ingenuity Batman! Yeah, I thought I was pretty sad, as you'll read in a newer post, the newer weight savings measures amount to little in isolation, however, I read a tidbit that made me slightly less clinically insane - McLaren had their logo engraved into the aluminium dashboard crossbeam in order to save 2.6g. Thank you, and, kindly sit on that naysayers. To further add to that, a few days later I set forth to also weigh the gearbox and driveshaft assemblies, mostly out of boredom, some out of curiosity, and some more to acknowleedge that these measures will amount to incredibly not-so-substantial savings! In short, the new (C56) gearbox & driveshaft assembly weighs 300g LESS than the old (C52b) assembly, score!
Anyway, I then returned to the wiring, and on returning to it, I was still flummoxed, so decided to twiddle my thumbs elsewhere. So. I removed the engine mounts, which took no effort whatsoever as they're held in by measly bolts (apart from the rear gearbox mount, they're a pig and necessitated the loosening of the anti-roll bar). In doing so I also noticed just how worn they were, opposing little resistance even to my Herculean thumbs, yet alone a porky lump of up and downy bang bangy metal (to quote a friend). Prior to this I also noticed this:
The passenger-side disc was quite worn - how worn? Very worn! Infact, it was so worn - I was going to attempt to be funny and put a "Yo mama!" joke here but I can't think of anything that would go with a worn brake disc. Onward. - that the outer grooves are nearly non-existant! I believe (a-duh!) that this may be the side that had the previously sticking caliper! Also this leads me to think, could it be a reason for the lack of brake torque? Unlikely thought I, as it was so sudden and occured straight after receiving the car from the garage.
Fast-forward a week or so, and in a move that had everyone believing I was somehow possessed by some evil doer, I decided to clean the enginebay. Heresy! So, yes, with the cleaning demon within my essence, I set forth to water-proof some vitals in the engine bay - in this case meaning I cut off some plastic from a plastic bag and cellotaped it around the fuel filter, some wiring, holes in the firewall etc.
And then came the jet wash. I got a fair cleaning from it, but on drying, I was astonished. 
It had next to NO effect whatsoever! Bah! This means I need to expend actual physical effort, to hell with that! Obviously my possessor is very lazy. I will leave that to another day then. Le Mans mud staining, thou hath defeated me. And completely soaked the garage floor. Fabulous!
Fast forwarding again, I managed to find a lower cambelt cover which meant I could finally get the crankshaft pulley in position and thus get the car ready for the installation of the flywheel! After which I was really struggling to think of anything worthwhile to do so I set back down to attacking the wiring. 
In short, lots and lots and lots of wires were removed, completely unsure of whether I was wise to remove that wire, wondering why are so many removed wires leading into the ECU, and will my car ever start ever again? These questions and more will undoubtedly give me a hilarious kick in the teeth in the near future. The box of wiring and related removed items, is pretty substantial at this stage, which just serves to build up the anxiety - not to worry, when Mark shows up he can fix it all for me cause I love him and because he has to or I'll cry :-(
Sometimes I just wish that my thumbs weren't so idle and vulnerable to Devil's play.
